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16.07.2013 – West Yellowstone – Battle Ridge Pass – 151km
Ponieważ wczoraj jechałem prawie do samego zmroku, dziś chciałem jak najszybciej zjechać do Bozeman. Liczyłem na nocleg u jednej z kilku osób z „ciepłego prysznica”, do których pisałem kilka dni wcześniej, jednak nikt nie odpowiedział, więc niestety kolejna noc w namiocie. Sprawdziłem też cenę za nocleg w hostelu, ale 24USD za łóżko w zbiorowym pokoju to zdecydowanie za dużo. Rano był przymrozek i około -2 poniżej zera. Nie przeszkodziło mi to jednak, aby wstać równo z budzikiem o 6:00. Kurteczka, czepeczka, rękawiczki i zjazd w dół. 40 kilometrów i półtora godziny później na stacji paliw piłem już kawę i zajadałem się batonikiem. Przed Bozeman zaczęło strasznie wiać i postraszyło deszczem. Godzina odpoczynku, zakupy i drogą 86 wjechałem na przełęcz Battle Ridge Pass. O przełęczy nie wiedziałem, ponieważ nawet nie mam jej na mapie i jest poniżej 2000m. Jednak obok niej znajduje się stare, ale – co najważniejsze – otwarte i darmowe pole namiotowe, na którym zdecydowałem się zostać. Oprócz mnie jest też kilka osób, więc w razie ataku niedźwiedzia (co już jest mało prawdopodobne) jest kogo wołać. Jutro ciężki dzień, ponieważ za dwa dni chcę dojechać do kolejnego większego miasta, a na mojej drodze dosyć wysoka przełęcz do której mam 150km.

17.07.2013 – Battle Ridge Pass – Forest Green – 154km
Poranek, mimo wysokości ponad 1900m, niezbyt chłodny. Podczas kilkunastu kilometrów zjazdu nie zdarzyłem zmarznąć. Mniej więcej do południa nie było zbyt gorąco, ale nie chciało mi się zbaczać z trasy 2km po wodę i przez kolejne kilkadziesiąt kilometrów musiałem jechać na sucho. Dobrze, że znalazłem studnie po drodze bo kolejna możliwość picia była dopiero w White Sulphur Springs, w których zrobiłem sobie dłuższą przerwę na lody. Z WSS na przełęcz Kings Hill Pass było jeszcze 50km, a do Great Falls ponad 170. Nie wiem czemu, kolejny raz staram się przejechać odcinek, na który powinienem przeznaczyć jeden dzień więcej w jeden dzień mniej. Od 17:00 jechałem już w cieniu i nie było tak gorąco, ponieważ zaczęło się chmurzyć. Burza i ulewa złapała mnie w wiosce Forest Green. Schroniłem się na tarasie zamkniętego motelu, gdzie przeczekałem godzinną nawałnicę. W między czasie odpocząłem trochę i zjadłem kolację. Nocleg już przy błękitnym niebie 7km przed przełęczą. Do Great Falls już tylko 115km i spora szansa na normalny nocleg.

18.07.2013 – Forest Green – Great Falls – 110km
W nocy nie spadła już ani jedna kropla deszczu, jednak powietrze było tak wilgotne, że namiot „spocił się” jak przy dużej ulewie. Rano miałem nawet małą kałużę w środku. Przygotowany byłem na zjazd do Great Falls i ogólnie luźniejszy dzień. Początek dnia według planu. Już przed ósmą zdobyłem przełęcz Kings Hill Pass. Potem jednak, zamiast długiego zjazdu do Great Falls, były w większości pagórki, a do celu dojechałem dopiero po 15:00 z przewyższeniem prawie 900m w górę. Na GPS rano dosyć ładnie to wyglądało: 115km, z wysokości ponad 2200m z przełęczy na około 1000m.npm w Great Falls. Kilka kilometrów przed Great Falls zatrzymał się samochodów, z którego wysiadł młody chłopak. To był Luc, syn Johna, u którego miałem zatrzymać się na noc. Ucieszyło mnie to spotkanie, ponieważ znów zrobiło się upalnie, a mi brakowało wody. Szybko zapakowaliśmy z Luckiem rower do auta i kilkanaście minut później byłem już po chłodnym prysznicu, ubrania się prały, zdjęcia wysyłały na DropBoxa i zajadałem się lodami przed TV z dzisiejszym etapem TdF na Alpe d’Huez, na którym oczywiście byłem kilka lat temu. Wieczorem poznałem Johna, który w połowie ma polskie korzenie. Wspólne piwko, rozmowa i 23:00 czas na sen. Ostatnio coraz częściej potrzebuję takich luźnych wieczorów i zresetowania się. Co za dużo to nie zdrowo nawet jeśli chodzi o jazdę na rowerze.

19.07.2013 – Great Falls – Bynum – 140km
Porannego lenia, który nie pozwolił mi wstać z łóżka do 7:30 przepędziłem dopiero po południu. Po śniadaniu musiałem jeszcze dojechać do miasta, ponieważ dom Johna znajdował się 5mil na południe od Great Falls i zrobić zakupy na kolejne dni. Według mapy następne większe miasto na mojej trasie to Calgary w Kanadzie, a przejechać jeszcze muszę Park Narodowy Glacier. Zanim więc wyjechałem z Great Falls było po 11:00, a na liczniku tylko 20km. Po południu jednak podkręciłem tempo i do wieczora wyszedł całkiem spory dystans. Montana znana jest z silnych wiatrów o czym mogłem się dziś przekonać. Po drodze zdążyłem jeszcze złapać flaka po najechaniu na drut. Ponieważ było to przednie koło, w którym jeszcze od początku wyprawy nie zmieniałem opony wykorzystałem ten moment na zamianę z zapasem z przyczepki. Stara i wydłużona opona Panaracer Tour będzie teraz jeździła na mniejszym odciążeniu w przyczepce, a nowa Panaracer Crosstown na przednim kole przez następne kilkanaście tysięcy kilometrów. W miasteczku Chateaux zrobiłem sobie dłuższą przerwę, ale żadnego zamku w okolicy nie widziałem jak wskazuje nazwa. Jedynie w środku ronda z centrum miasta stoi budynek trochę podobny do pałacu. Na stacji paliw sprzedawca nie policzył mi za napój – Refill do bidonu. Nocleg na polu za wsią Bynum na bocznej drodze do gospodarstwa. Prawie godzinę szukałem odpowiedniego miejsca. Wszędzie płasko i fermy dookoła. Albo konie i krowy, albo zboże i za mokro.

20.07.2013 – Bynum – East Glacier Park – 114km
Wieczorem obserwowałem ciekawe zjawisko pogodowe. Kilkadziesiąt kilometrów dalej przechodziła chmura burzowa, która co chwilę była podświetlana przez pioruny. Z daleka wyglądało to jakby ktoś co chwilę zapalał i gasił światło w chmurze. Miejsce na nocleg też wybrałem pierwszej klasy. W okolicy 20 km ani żywego ducha. Nawet ptaków nie słyszałem. Głucha cisza całą noc. Chwilę po szóstej przejeżdżał właściciel pola, na którym spałem. Przywitał się i pojechał dalej. Do kolejnego większego miasta miałem 90km, a do miasteczka docelowego East Glacier Park, gdzie czekał na mnie prysznic, kolacja i miejsce na camping w ogrodzie około 110km. Od rana zabrałem się ostro do roboty, aby popołudnie spędzić już odpoczywając w cieniu. Wiatr i ukształtowanie terenu nie pomagały jednak w szybkim osiągnięciu celu. Do miasta Browning dojechałem po 14:00. Spodziewałem się większego wyboru sklepów i niższych cen, jednak zapewne bliska odległość do parku Glacier oraz granicy z Kanadą sprawiły, że trochę się rozczarowałem. Z Browning do East Glacier było już tylko 20km, a w progu domu Jo i Sama stanąłem tuż po 16:00. Warmshowers działa. To kolejny nocleg w ostatnim czasie u życzliwych ludzi chętnie pomagającym rowerowym podróżnikom. Od ponad miesiąca odkąd zarejestrowałem się na tym portalu nie spałem ani razu w motelu zaoszczędzając w ten sposób wiele USD. Jo i Sam przygotowali ogromną kolację z kilku dań. Małe porcje, ale wszystkich potraw było sporo i skutecznie napełniły mój żołądek do syta. Po kolacji Sam opowiedział mi kilka ciekawych zdarzeń z parku, w którym pracuje jako ranger. Dostałem również prezent w postaci sprey’u na niedźwiedzie. Dodatkowe 230gram i trochę mniej miejsca w sakwie, ale teraz będę mógł spać spokojniej w lasach pełnych niedźwiedzi brązowych, czarnych i największych grizzly. Odwdzięczyłem się wpisem do księgi gości, którą Jo&Sam prowadzą od kilku lat. Sporo wypraw rowerowych odwiedziło East Glacier. Tym razem zamiast łóżka miałem do dyspozycji ogród, gdzie mogłem rozbić namiot. Na gęstej miękkiej trawie spało się jednak tak dobrze jak na najdroższym materacu.

21.07.2013 – East Glacier – Lake McDonald – 124.5km
Rano Jo nie chciała mnie wypuścić z domu o pustym żołądku, więc na śniadanie mogłem liczyć na mleko z granolą, migdałami i truskawkami z ogrodu. Chwilę po ósmej wyruszyłem w stronę Marias Pass, najniższej przełęczy działu kontynentalnego na północ od Nowego Meksyku. Przeważnie zdobywam te najwyższe, ale tym razem niespodziewanie na drodze stanęła bardzo łatwa i niewysoka Marias. Jeszcze dobrze nie wjechałem do parku lodowców, a już niektóre widoczki zmuszały mnie do zatrzymania się i uwiecznienia w pamięci aparatu. Od Marias Pass aż do West Glacier przeważnie było w dół lub prosto, więc dzień w większości niezbyt wymagający. West Glacier leży na wysokości poniżej 1000m.npm, więc do kolejnej tym razem najwyższej przełęczy drogowej Parku Glacier mam ponad kilometr przewyższenia w górę. Jeszcze przed bramą wjazdową do parku liczyłem na drobne zakupy, jednak już w West Glacier ceny nawet chyba wyższe niż w Yellowstone. Chwilę później udało mi się wjechać do Parku Glacier za darmo drogą rowerową prowadząca przez las wzdłuż drogi. 12USD do przodu. Kawałek dalej, przy największym jeziorze w parku, McDonald Lake zauważyłem znak – zakaz jazdy rowerem w godzinach od 11:00 do 16:00. Na zegarku miałem 15:30 więc pół godziny przesiedziałem nad wodą jeziora McDonald, które ma ponad 16km długości i 130m w najgłębszym miejscu. Restrykcje spowodowane są brakiem poboczy i trudniejszym wyprzedzaniem rowerzystów w godzinach największego ruchu samochodowego. Jutro poniedziałek, a planuję wyjechać wcześnie, więc mam nadzieję na niewielki ruch do czasu zdobycia Logan Pass. Nocleg na Campground Avalanche za 5USD dla turystów bez samochodu. W portfelu mam 10USD, a rozmienić nie za bardzo jest jak, więc jak się nikt nie doczepi do rana śpię za free. Dziś wydałem tylko niecałe 2 dolary na stacji paliw w West Glacier na napój z 3 x refill i batonik.

22.07.2013 – Lake McDonald – Cardston – 122km
Podekscytowany i ciekawy przejazdu drogą nazywaną „Going to the Sun” wstałem już o 6:00 i 20 minut później byłem już w drodze. Jazdą zbyt długo się nie nacieszyłem, ponieważ po jednym kilometrze musiałem odczekać na samochód pilotujący przez remont kilku kilometrowego odcinka drogi. W sumie to dobrze się złożyło, ponieważ najwięcej samochodów wjeżdża właśnie od West Glacier, a kiedy ruch odbywał się wahadłowo cała grupa aut przejeżdżała cyklicznie co 15-20 minut, a ja potem cieszyłem się z większej niż zwykle swobody na drodze. Droga do przełęczy prowadzi wąską półką wzdłuż skalnego zbocza z fantastycznymi widokami na dolinę oraz kilka szczytów i wodospadów. Niestety, lodowce w większości już dawno stopniały i poza śnieżnymi płatami po ostatniej zimie nie widziałem żadnego z pozostałych 27 z ponad 150 jeszcze kilkadziesiąt lat temu. Nie udało mi się także zobaczyć żadnego większego zwierza poza kilkoma świstakami i wiewiórkami kolumbijskimi, których w całych północnych stanach jest zatrzęsienie, a mieszkają one główne w norkach przy drogach. Droga na przełęcz jest dosyć łatwa. 1000 metrów przewyższenia na długości 20 kilometrów to średnio 5% nachylenia i tyle mniej więcej jest. Na przełęczy znajduje się spory parking oraz centrum informacyjne dla turystów, którzy w większości wwożeni są na Logan Pass zabytkowymi czerwonymi samochodami. Park Glacier powinien zmienić nazwę na park wodospadów lub jezior, bo właśnie to są teraz największe atrakcje tego miejsca. Po godzinie zjazdu byłem już w Sant Mary, miasteczku poza parkiem i po skromnych zakupach kierowałem się do granicy z Kanadą.
Na chwilę zatrzymałem się jeszcze w ostatniej osadzie w USA przed granicą o nazwie Babb. Z każdym kolejnym kilometrem coraz bardziej oddalałem się od gór, a droga robiła się coraz bardziej płaska. Z terytorium USA jest za to bardzo łatwo wyjechać, znaki jeszcze po stronie amerykańskiej nakazywały jechać od razu na odprawę do części kanadyjskiej. Odprawa paszportowa przeszła bez większych problemów, kanadyjscy pogranicznicy zatrzymali mnie tylko na chwilę w celu kilku dodatkowych pytań o cel i czas pobytu w Kanadzie. Kilka minut później w paszporcie miałem już kolejną pieczątkę, a strażnik życzył mi przyjemnego pobytu w Kanadzie. Na granicy oczywiście była sesja zdjęciowa z tablicą Welcome to Canada, amerykańskiej, niestety, podczas wyjazdu nie znalazłem. Następne kilometry to szybki przejazd do pierwszego większego miasta w Kanadzie, Cardston, gdzie chciałem zrobić większe zakupy i zjeść porządną kolację. Nie spodziewałem się jednak tak wysokich cen w sklepach. Z ciekawości w celu sprawdzenia cen udałem się do dwóch różnych sklepów. Chleb, ciastka, napój i dwa pomidory prawie 10 dolarów. Stanowczo za dużo. Jak na razie większych różnic między USA i Kanadą nie dostrzegam poza zasięgiem w komórce, który jest od początku wjazdu do Kanady, odległości są podawane w kilometrach, a w sklepach płacąc kartą mogę używać bezpieczniejszej metody z chipem i kodem pin. Nocleg w parku miejskim w Cardston.

23.07.2013 – Cardston – Clareshold – 115km
W nocy obudziły mnie zraszacze trawników. Spałem w zadaszonym miejscu na piknik, więc mnie nie zmoczyło. Wstałem równo z budzikiem o 6:00, pierwsi mieszkańcy już spacerowali z pieskami i biegali wokół boiska, które znajdowało się obok parku. Do Calgary już niedaleko, a ja nie muszę się wcale spieszyć, ponieważ na czwartek prawdopodobnie będę miał spanie. Do czwartku jednak jeszcze trzy dni, więc trasę do Calgary muszę podzielić mniej więcej na trzy równe etapy. Trzy łatwe, płaskie odcinki, na których już odpoczywam sporo, a dwa leniwe dni w Calgary dopiero przede mną. 120km do Clareshold zrobiłem do 16:00 mocno ociągając się po drodze. Nie byłem pewien, czy w Kanadzie jak w USA mogę poruszać się po autostradach, jednak znaków zakazu nie widziałem, a kierowcy też nie zwracali na mnie większej uwagi. Reszta dnia przeznaczona na relaks przy WiFi, zaległości w mailowaniu oraz krótkie zwiedzanie i tak niedużego Clareshold. Nocleg w namiocie niedaleko miasta. Trochę się naszukałem zanim znalazłem spokojne miejsce z dala od autostrady i zabudowań.

24.07.2013 – Clareshold – High River – 85km
Wieczorem rozkładając namiot musiałem stoczyć kolejną bitwę z komarami później jednak już na spokojnie mogłem obserwować poziome i pionowe błyskawice oświetlające mi wnętrze namiotu kilka razy na minutę. W sumie wybrałem bardzo dobre miejsce do spania ponieważ dopiero rano obok drogi, przy której spałem przejechał jeden samochód. Przed 7:00 zwinąłem się i powróciłem na główną drogę w kierunku Calgary. Dziś do przejechania miałem bardzo krótki odcinek do High River, gdzie w ostatniej chwili dostałem zaproszenie na ciepły prysznic. W miasteczku byłem już po 13:00. Kilka tygodni wcześniej przez High River oraz inne okoliczne wioski przeszła fala powodziowa wyrządzając wiele szkód. Część High River została nawet ewakuowana. Do domu na nocleg zaprosił mnie Lorne z żoną Bev, którzy wiele podróżują po świecie. Bev na kolację przyrządziła ryż z mięsem i warzywami na ostro, a Lorne zabrał mnie na kawę i lody.

25.07.2013 – High River – Cochrane – 101.5km
Jubileuszowy setny dzień wyprawy. Nie spieszyłem się rano. Wstałem po 7:00, śniadanie przed ósmą i przed 9:00 wyjazd w stronę Calgary. Pochmurno, wiatr lekko z tyłu, a temperatura poniżej 20 stopni przez większość dnia. Odzwyczaiłem się od takiej pogody, ale nie powiem cieszę się, że nie jest upalnie. Zdjęcie przy tablicy „Calgary” zrobiłem po godzinach jazdy ze średnią prędkością 20km/h. Kolejną godzinę zajęło mi dostanie się do centrum miasta. Z noclegiem, niestety, tym razem nie wyszło, więc zmuszony byłem wyjechać z miasta i poszukać spokojnego miejsca na rozbicie namiotu. Tak jak nie lubię dużych miast, tak Calgary chciałem pozwiedzać, ale niestety los chciał inaczej. Zrobiłem tylko jedną fajną fotkę z wysokimi wieżowcami centrum miasta. Na dwa, trzy dni nakupiłem też jedzenia w bardzo niskich jak na Kanadę cenach. Po 19:00 byłem już poza miastem i drogą 1A kierowałem się na zachód, gdzie jutro czeka mnie najwyższa drogowa przełęcz Kanady. Przed 20:00 dociągnąłem do 100 km i zjechałem w las przeganiając przy okazji stadko mulaków. Niedługo po rozbiciu namiotu zaczęło padać. Deszcz, burza, grad, silny wiatr. W sumie wszystko na raz. Pół godziny później było już po nawałnicy, a na niebie zaczynały pojawiać się gwiazdy.

26.07.2013 – Cochrane – Seebe – 165km
Według planu powinienem dziś odpoczywać od roweru i zwiedzać Calgary. Musiałem jednak zmusić się do wysiłku i wjechać na najwyższą przełęcz drogową Kanady, Highwood Pass. Przez ostatnie kilka tygodni byłem przekonany, że w Calgary będzie mój dzień bez roweru, odpoczynek, relaks i wszystko inne niż jazda. Bardzo trudno jest się zmotywować do jazdy, kiedy coś zaplanowanego nie wychodzi i trzeba na szybko ustanawiać nowe cele i priorytety. Od samego rana miałem wrażenie, że wszystko jest przeciwko mnie, co dodatkowo mnie irytowało. Po 6:00 ociekający wodą namiot pakowałem do worka. Podczas śniadania okazało się, że zgubiłem lub prawdopodobnie wyrzuciłem razem ze śmieciami mój „ołtarzyk” (chusta, łyżka, nóż), na którym jem. Kiedy chciałem naładować mp3 w akumulatorku nie było prądu, ponieważ jeden z kabelków się przerwał. Największy zawód spotkał mnie jednak w drodze na przełęcz Highwood Pass. Okazało się, że droga jest zamknięta z powodu remontu po niedawnej powodzi, która przeszła przez tą część Kanady. Choć o nieprzejezdnej drodze wiedziałem od samego początku podjazdu postanowiłem spróbować podjechać do końca otwartego odcinka. Miałem nadzieję, że może będzie chociaż otwarta droga dla rowerów skoro auta nie mogą przejechać. Niestety, nie dość, że droga była zamknięta to za próbę przejazdu rowerem groziła jeszcze wysoka kara finansowa. Tym razem do szczęścia zabrakło 10 km i około 500 m przewyższenia. Dojechałem tylko w okolice zwaną Little Highwood Pass na wysokość 1700m i rozczarowany musiałem zawrócić. Humoru nie zdołał poprawić mi nawet napotkany po drodze niedźwiedź czarny, piękne skały czy spory przejechany dystans tego dnia. Nocleg w namiocie na polanie po wojnie z chmarą komarów.

27.07.2013 – Seebe – Lake Louise – 130km
Po wczorajszym dniu, kiedy wydawało mi się, że nic nie wychodzi dziś obudziłem się w lepszym nastroju. W zasadzie to na dzień dobry o 6:00 wschodzące słońce oświetliło mój namiot, w którym od razu zrobiło się ciepło. Wieczorem i rano znów musiałem stoczyć wojnę z komarami, niestety, z wieloma stratami znaczy pogryzieniami. Z pełną ochotą ruszyłem jednak w kierunku Canmore, gdzie po 30km jeszcze przed ósmą zasiadłem do porannej kawy w FF. Potem szybkie zakupy w dwóch największych sklepach i kierunek północ w stronę Banff. Za dużo nie wydałem, bo i za dużo nie kupiłem. Dżem z promocji, pieczywo z przeceny, koncentrat izotoniczny i ciastka. Musi wystarczyć na kilka dni, a jak nie to dietka. Dalej wybrałem spokojniejszą drogę alternatywną do autostrady, boczną 1A. Z Canmore do rozjazdu i tak jechałem głównie rowerówką wzdłuż Trans Canadian Highway. Dziś widoki jak i wysokości bardziej jakby alpejskie, dolomitowe. Co jakiś czas rzuca mi się w oczy jakieś strome zbocze z ostrymi grzebieniami u szczytu. Wzdłuż drogi sporo wody. Stawy, jeziorka, strumyki z krystalicznie czystą wodą. Dziś również udało mi się „upolować” dużego zwierza. Dorosła łania stała i czekała spokojnie, aż obcykam ją z każdej strony. Uciekła dopiero kiedy przejechały dwa głośne motory. Przed 19:00 dojechałem do Lake Louise ostatniej wioski przed maratonem przełęczy. Jestem już na wysokości ponad 1600m, a trzy przełęcze przede mną tylko nieznacznie przekraczają 2000m więc nie powinno być zbyt ciężko. Wciąż chodzi mi po głowie wczorajszy podjazd na Highwood Pass. W drodze powrotnej upewnię się jeszcze czy przełęcz nie jest otwarta od strony południowej. Nocleg w namiociku obok bocznej drogi niedaleko Lake Louise.

28.07.2013 – Lake Louise – Crossing – 158km, 1800m w górę
Nocka chłodna, rano tylko 5st. Zaraz po spakowaniu namiotu i wyjechaniu na drogę, przejeżdżając obok krzaków, miś wystraszył mnie, a ja misia. Zajadał coś w trawie jakieś 200m od miejsca, w którym spałem. Zdążyłem go tylko „ustrzelić” na dużym zoomie moim Canonem i uciekł miś w gęsty las. Ponieważ trochę zmarzłem, zajechałem ponownie do Lake Louise na kawę i donut’a z polewą klonową. Po kilkunastu minutach byłem już na trasie 93 Icefields Parkway prowadzącą na dwie przełęcze powyżej 2000m. Droga, a raczej pobyt w parku płatny. Prawie 10 dolarów za dzień, a musiałem wykupić aż na dwa. Jeszcze przed wjazdem do parku widać największe jego atrakcje, czyli lodowce oraz jeziorka z turkusową wodą. Na przełęcz Bow Pass i w boczną drogę zwaną Bow Summit, która jest najwyższym punktem Icefields Parkway wjechałem tuż po południu. Ta część była bardzo łatwa i szybka. Z Bow Summit zjechałem do Crossing (motel, stacja paliw, sklep, restauracja). W sklepie kupiłem ciasta z nadzieniem klonowym oraz napój. Cena za ciastka kosmiczna, ale stosunek ilości do ceny najlepszy i coś jeść muszę. Przyznam, że bardzo mi smakują te klonowe wyroby. Zjazd do Crossing dość stromy i jutro czeka mnie wspinaczka na Bow Summit od strony północnej. Tymczasem podjazd na moją drugą przełęcz dzisiejszego dnia był już bardziej wymagający. Na Sunwapta Pass wdrapałem się dopiero po 19:00 przy silnym wietrze i lekkim deszczu. Mniej więcej od 17:00 zaczęło się bardziej chmurzyć i straszyć deszczem. Droga na przełęcz prowadzi szeroką doliną z tylko jednym bardzo długim zakrętem, który prawie zatacza koło o średnicy kilkuset metrów. Dziś osiągnąłem najbardziej na północ wysunięty punkt wyprawy. Od jutra już kierunek głównie na południe, z częściej wiejącym wiatrem w plecy mam nadzieję. Nocleg na polu biwakowym między drzewami 22km przed Crossing na wysokości 1450m. Dziś nie śpię sam. Kilkadziesiąt metrów ode mnie zaparkował camper. Misia chyba dziś nie będzie. Śpię między drogą i rzeką. Za drogą wysoki grzbiet, a rzeka za głęboka, więc miś nie przepłynie.

29.07.2013 – Crossing – Vermillion Pass – 154km
Co za odmiana dzisiejszego dnia. Rano 5st. a przez cały dzień niewiele więcej, koło 14:00 było około 11’C. Przez większości dnia niebo zachmurzone i co jakiś czas popadywał przelotny deszcz. Na szczytach widać było niewielkie ilości świeżego śniegu. Dopiero pod koniec dnia przejaśniło się i wyszło słońce, było jednak już zbyt późno, aby temperatura wzrosła. Do restauracji w Crossing miałem tylko 22km. Wstałem dopiero 7:40. Wczorajsze 1800 metrów przewyższenia, chłód i padający rano deszcz sprawiły, że ciężko było wyjść z ciepłego śpiworka. Po 9:00 powtórka z wczorajszego dnia. Ciasta klonowe i kawa na śniadanie. Z wysokości 1400m musiałem wjechać na Bow Pass na 2067m, później zjechać do Lake Louise, gdzie zrobiłem dłuższą przerwę. Z Lake Louise przejechałem 25km autostradą do Castle Mountain by powrócić na drogę 93 i wjechać na banalnie prostą przełęcz Vermillion Pass. Kilka kilometrów niżej zacząłem rozglądać się za spaniem. To już drugi dzień pod rząd z dystansem dziennym ponad 150km. Jutro chyba będę mógł liczyć na luźniejsze popołudnie, prysznic i łóżeczko.

30.07.2013 – Vermillion Pass – Fairmont -138km
Noc chłodna, a poranek jeszcze bardziej. Po 6:00, kiedy wyszedłem z namiotu było tylko 0’C. Wyjechałem tak wcześnie, ponieważ jak najszybciej chciałem dojechać do Fairmont, gdzie czekał na mnie prysznic, łóżko i kolacja u Donny i Dawida. Na mojej drodze stała tylko jedna niska przełęcz Sinclair Pass. Droga na przełęcz prowadziła piękną i niezbyt ruchliwą drogą szeroką doliną wzdłuż rzeki. Końcówka nawet dosyć stroma do 10%. Na przełęczy spotkałem czeską parę, od której dostałem mrożoną herbatę. Po miłej rozmowie polsko-czesko-angielskiej zjechałem do miasteczka Radium Hot Springs, gdzie zrobiłem małe zakupy, odpocząłem w cieniu przy pomniku z muflonami. Zaraz potem, w środku miasteczka, spotkałem stadko prawdziwych muflonów zajadających trawę. Dwie godziny później, po dłuższym czasie w końcu doczekałem się ciepłego prysznica i łóżeczka a na kolację burgery i sałatka.

31.07.2013 – Fairmont – Crowbrook – 114km
Wczorajszy dzień niczym mnie nie zmęczył, a dzisiejszy okazał się jeszcze łatwiejszy. Z Fairmont zjechałem tylko do Crowbrook, gdzie czekał na mnie Paul, u którego mogłem zatrzymać się na noc. Pierwszy raz udało mi się znaleźć dwa noclegi pod rząd poprzez serwis Warmshowers. W domu Paul’a mogłem liczyć na prawdziwe luksusy. Piękny pokój z nowymi meblami, łóżko z czystą pościelą oraz ciepłą kolację. Przez pozostałą część wieczoru oglądałem filmy, co było miłą odmianą.